Showing posts with label How to.... Show all posts
Showing posts with label How to.... Show all posts

Monday, August 10, 2015

How to Replace RV Slide Topper Awning Fabric

How to Replace RV Slide Topper Awning Fabric 


Well, this was upsetting.  The wind caught our awning and ripped the fabric.....likely because it was so old and brittle.  But, still...upsetting.  

So, we ordered new fabric and this is how we did the install.....By the way, when measuring for new fabric, the fabric lengths are center to center, arm to arm.

This is for a slide topper awning compatible with Carefree, Carter, & A&E awnings.

We decided to prop the awning arms up at about chest level to make it easier to replace the fabric.


As you unroll the awning fabric, note the number of times you turn the torsion assembly to relieve the tension.  The spring’s tension is exact and will need to be set to this exact point during reinstallation.  In our case, the awning fabric had ripped off, so we guessed 11 times.  Keep in mind that unrolling the fabric tightens the spring and rolling it up releases it.

Hardware will need to be removed only from the side that you will be inserting the awning fabric from.  The rivets (example shown below) have to be removed...


...as well as the awning bracket.


There was also a screw down the track from the bracket that needed to be removed.  It actually had to be drilled out.


When the rivets are removed, the torsion assembly can be pulled apart as shown below.  The cord can be pulled out as well as...


...the existing awning fabric.  Keep in mind that the fabric will be reinserted in much the same way as it is removed.



The next step requires the help of an assistant.  In fact, the help of 4 people would have been ideal, but we accomplished the task with just the two of us.  The vinyl awning fabric came with a cord installed on the bottom and top.  First, feed the cord and fabric into the top rail about 1 foot.


Then feed the cord and fabric into the track on the torsion assembly.  


This is where more people comes in handy as you feed the fabric into the track and keep guiding it down the rail.


The top and bottom need to be fed together.


When the fabric has been fed completely onto the track, the bracket and screw can be reinstalled.


The torsion assembly has a second track.  The fabric has to be carefully folded into this track and then a cord inserted into the track.  This is tricky.  You have to be careful not to rip the fabric.  We used a pin punch to glide the cord down the track.  We also sprayed WD40 on the fabric to make it easier to slide the cord down the track.


We used the blunt edge of a bondo applicator to fold the fabric down the track.


There was an existing stopper piece that we reinserted over the cord before pushing the torsion assembly back into place.


The existing rivets were old/worn, so we used sheet metal screws to hold everything in place.



Carefully roll the awning up into place.



The following are pictures of the awning fully extended.  We are very happy with this vinyl fabric.  It is also working well in the rain.



Yay!!  All finished.


My mom & Chad




 

Friday, June 19, 2015

How to Grill a Beef Roast

How to Grill a Beef Roast

Well, we didn't think it was possible, but we gave it a try and it turned out great!

Ingredients
Beef Chuck Roast
Salt
Garlic Powder
Barbecue Sauce  (We like Stubbs

Here's how we did it..... 

Preheat your grill.
Using a sharp knife, score the roast.  (You may want to view the larger version of the picture by clicking on it so you can see the scoring in the picture.)



 Apply salt generously to both sides and pound the roast with your thumb to work the salt into the meat and to tenderize it.

Apply a thin layer of garlic powder on each side of the roast   Pound the roast again to work the garlic powder into the meat.


 
Place the roast on a very hot grill and sear both sides.



Remove from the grill and place on a sheet of tin foil.  Apply barbecue sauce to one side of the roast.  (We like Stubbs Spicy Sauce.)



Spread the sauce evenly on the roast and wrap in the aluminum foil.




Place the roast back on the grill and slow cook for about 1-1 1/4 hr. (time may vary depending on your grill and the size of the roast.)
 


Cut into thin slices and serve.



Bon Appetit!



Thursday, January 22, 2015

How to connect an RV gas/electric hot water heater to AC power

Back in September, we bought a new hot water heater.  It was an Atwood gas/electric model.   But, we had been running it off of propane only.  However, a couple of weeks ago when the temperatures really dropped, Chad decided we should really be using the electric as well in case we run out of propane during the night.  If that were to happen, the whole hot water tank would likely freeze. Chad actually "adapted" it to run off of AC power.  This way we have the option to only use propane.

Here's how.....


He bought a cheap electrical cord from the Hardware store and cut it to remove the female end.


Slit the cord to expose the wires.


Twist together the new wires from the electrical cord with the wires from the hot water heater.  Connect positive with positive (white) and negative with negative (usually black).



Add wire nuts.


Then we fed the electrical cord out to the outside of the RV and plugged it into the outlet located beside the hot water heater compartment.



Monday, January 12, 2015

How to Fix an RV Roof Leak - Part 2

Well, our RV roof leak saga continues lol.  Upon further investigation, Chad found what he thinks is the main culprit for the roof leak in the front of the RV.  It was the bathroom vent pipe pictured here...



He took the lid off and noticed that the pipe fit loosely in the hole.  So, he sealed it up good with white silicone. 

Today we had a nice rainy wintry mix.  So, we had a good opportunity to see how the fix worked.  Well, there was no water in the cabinets.  So, that is an improvement.  But, there is still a drip on the right side above the area where we keep our shoes.  So, we are well on our way to getting the problem completely fixed.




Sunday, January 11, 2015

How to Thaw and Drain Waste Tanks

Well, the Winter Rving adventure continues in Our RV life.  Yesterday morning, it was 12 degrees.  And, our rinse & waste tanks were full.  So...time to dump.  But, wait!  We couldn't because the valves were frozen.  We have been using rock salt in the tanks to keep the liquids in the tanks from freezing.  But, in temperatures this low, that may not keep it completely thawed.  So, Chad came up with the idea to build a little foam board enclosure around the tanks that we can heat to thaw the valves / tanks as needed.  

How did we do this?

Items needed:

foam board insulation 

Measuring tape  

Knife / razor blade for cutting the foam

Duct tape 







First, you need to take measurements for the sizes you need to cut the foam.  We only wanted to enclose the area around the holding tanks.  
So, we cut two long pieces...... 


and two short pieces for the sides.  And, a few smaller pieces at the end to fill in the gaps.

The board is flexible enough to conform to the shape of the tire.

Tip - when cutting the foam it's easier to cut down the lines already in the foam board.

Chad cutting the foam board

The foam board configuration
Cut out the area for the sewer hose door.
We plugged our small electric heater into this outlet...


....which is located close by in the refrigerator vent compartment.


We placed the heater in the compartment.


The last step was to secure the corners and any loose sections with duct tape.


We left the heater running in the enclosed space for 5-6 hours.  The valves opened easily and the tanks drained with no problems.  Success!